![]() When I first saw it,I seriously thought that someone did the usual missile launcher removal mod,integrated a modified Demolisher stock,and added a raider pump handle to make things more ergonomic.But turns out,it is an actual Nerf blaster! Till then, have a blast!Ĭhina is upto it again.Leaking new blasters.Not that we appreciate it,though.The latest blaster leaked is the Nerf Thunderblast,which is basically a Demolisher missile launcher with a stock.Here it is!Ĭredits to Rob from SBNC.Check out his blog Next week, its about taking care of your darts. That completes my tutorial on Flywheel blaster tuning. Just lubricate the moving parts and the main points of contact and you’re good to go! ![]() The trigger assembly might need lubrication to reduce friction and jams. Make sure you use good quality alkaline batteries like Duracell or Energizer, instead of the cheap Zinc-Carbon ones. Apart from being a great stock class performer, your blaster can now accept aftermarket batteries without overheating and stopping mid-game. Reassemble your blaster and test fire it a few times. Following the circuit diagram is the only thing you need to see if you get stuck. Make sure you check the flywheel orientation and functioning before you reassemble your blaster. ![]() Use that exposed section to connect the wires going to the batteries. Then solder two pieces of wire that have an exposed section in the center in parallel. To do this, first remove all four resistors. Also, remove the resistors in the flywheel cage shown below and replace them with normal wire. You have a choice of either entirely removing the board and soldering the wires, or simply twisting the yellow thermistor until the metal contacts are wound together. See the circuit board on the top right? It contains a thermistor that cuts off your circuit when it gets overheated. So what you can do is get the most out of your stock alkaline batteries. Most of the time, its forbidden to use aftermarket batteries having a high voltage output, like Trustfires. Once you’re aware of how things work inside the blaster, you need to know what can you change in your blaster without breaking stock-class rules. Keep these in mind, as they will be altered in the next segment. Note the resistors running through the circuit especially the thermistor panel above the pusher rod. Understand how the trigger assembly works. These will remain the same with all the semi-auto flywheel blasters. Let’s take a look at the actual thing.įamiliarize yourself with the internals. The dart is pushed in by a mechanical pusher rod and the inversely moving flywheels propel the dart out. The acceleration trigger is simply a pressure switch that completes the circuit, running two motors in parallel. This covers the Stryfe, Demolisher, Rayven, Barricade, Rapid Red, Nerf Cam and the Modulus. Given above is a simplified diagram of how a semi-auto flywheel blaster works. But once you know how the current goes through the blaster, it becomes pretty simple to follow. Given the fact that your typical semi-auto flywheel blaster has a myriad of wiring and resistors and circuit panels going through it, it seems pretty daunting in trying to understand it. Following last weeks’s tutorial on how to get the maximum out of your stock class blasters, I am back with a tune-up tutorial for flywheel blasters.
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